The one thing I tell many of my clients over and over- find a good tailor and stick with them!
You can have on a $5,000 suit, but if the pants have 3 inches of break, or the sleeves are to the knuckles.... it will look like a cheap suit- period.
I know it takes a little time and money, but believe me it is SO worth it! Isn't it funny how some will readily pay $8 bucks for a fancy cup of coffee, but won't spend $10 to have the hem of their pants fixed?
JUST DO IT... you won't regret it!
Another rule: New or vintage, alterations should always be expected to get a proper fit!
Here is a great chart to gauge the correct proportions.........